The Scandinavian Trip (without the Northern Lights)
Below is an account of my 9-day trip to Denmark and Norway which covers my experiences while backpacking through Scandinavia. My journey started from Mumbai covering Copenhagen in Denmark and the cities of Stavanger and Bergen in Norway.
Hope you like it!
I walked briskly along the deserted corridors of Munich airport. The familiar emptiness brought back memories of my last visit to Europe having spent countless overnight hours at airport terminals. Though, now was not the time to reminisce. My next flight to Copenhagen was due in 30 mins.
I scampered across the airport and reached the gate with 5 mins to take off and the last one to board.
Landing in Copenhagen — Part 1
I settled in my hostel but found that my “universal” adapter was a dud. With my phone running at 25%, my first outing to the beautiful city of Copenhagen was in a desperate search for a universal adapter. I finally found one at a shopping mall, though it wasn’t easy.
With my charger situation sorted, I decided to do as the Danes did i.e. cycle my way back from the mall to the hostel. I had never seen as many kinds of cycles as I had seen in a couple of hours in Copenhagen. Regular bicycles, tricycles, cargo cycles, family cycles (entire family on one cycle), electric cycles — you name it. I downloaded the “Donkey Republic” app- a commonly used app in Denmark to rent cycles by the minute. I found it both fun and intimidating to ride cycle-specific lanes. Unlike in India, where cycles are an aberration, Denmark takes great care of cyclists where there are designated cycle lanes with special traffic lights for cyclists. The fact that Denmark drives on the right side of the road was something knew, but had not fully registered in my mind. With me blissfully cycling on the left side oblivious of the driving rules I was flouting, I had more than a few cyclists honking at me before I figured out what was wrong.
Back in my hostel, I started to unpack. I don’t know what’s it about packing or unpacking but all major life wisdom occurs to me while doing either of those activities. I realised that since I was all by myself and travelling solo what I made of this trip was entirely up to me. Not that I hadn’t thought of this before. But at that moment, being alone in a foreign city and anxious about the days ahead, was empowering. As Charlie Mackesy says in his book The Boy, the Mole, the Fox and the Horse-
“One of our greatest freedoms is how we react to things”
Travelling by yourself to an entirely new place is not entirely easy. Especially Europe where everything feels alien at first. You have your ups and downs and times when all you feel like is snugging inside a blanket and not moving an inch. After a quick bath, I again set out to the city with a renewed vigour.
One of my main objectives in Copenhagen was to cover as many places as possible from my one of favourite Netflix series ‘Borgen’. Borgen translated to ‘the castle’ in English is the informal name given to the Danish parliament. The series is a political drama following a group of characters navigating politics alongside personal life in Denmark.
Since it was my birthday, I decided to indulge myself at the Conditori La Glace with a big slice of ‘Sportskage’. Conditori La Glace itself is one the most famous confectionaries in Copenhagen and present since 1870. This confectionery is mentioned by Birgitte Nyborg(the series’ protagonist) in the 4th season and is amongst the favourites of locals and politicians.
I walked along many of the beautiful canals of the city where people were out in full fervour, thanks to the charming weather. Sunny days are especially cherished in Scandinavia.
As I meandered around the city walking alongside the canals, I made a mental note to kayak when I would be back in Copenhagen after a week. For now, Copenhagen was only a pitstop towards my final destination, Norway.
Stavanger- The edge of Norway:
Stavanger is a small city located in southwest Norway. One of its renowned landmarks is the Oil Museum, which offers profound insights into the transformative impact of oil discovery in the late 1960s on Norway’s development. This significant event reshaped the nation’s trajectory, propelling Norway to become one of the wealthiest countries globally due to its abundant oil deposits. However, just having oil does not guarantee riches. The museum offered a good glimpse of what it took for the Norwegian government to extract the maximum value of oil for the benefit of its citizens and shield itself from the ‘oil curse’.
As of December 2021, Norway’s wealth fund had amassed ample resources to allocate a remarkable sum of 250,000 USD per Norwegian citizen, a figure that continues to grow steadily!
My main reason for visiting Stavanger was its proximity to the iconic Pulpit Rock or Preikestolen, as known in Norwegian. This majestic rock formation gained additional fame when it was featured in the movie Mission Impossible: Fallout, with Tom Cruise scaling its vertical face.
For normal people like us, however, there is a well-marked trek route to the top. The round-trip hike was a total of 8km. I came fully equipped with my hiking shoes and a rain jacket, knowing well that the weather in the region had a notorious reputation for its abrupt changes. As the saying goes — “There is no bad weather, only bad clothing”.
After an ascending hike of 1 hour 40mins, I was finally at the edge of the Preikestolen. Upon reaching the top, the Lysefjord (the fjord surrounding the region) wasn’t immediately visible because of the clouds which lapped us. After an hour of waiting (during which many people had given up hope and started their descent), the valley finally revealed itself to spectacular views.
After I returned from my trek I was greeted by my Airbnb host, Ms. Marita, a Norwegian in her mid-50s.
“Any broken bones? Broken muscles?” she asked, as I walked in through the door.
“Haha, no. Thankfully not”.
I hadn’t broken anything but I had managed to sprain my right knee on my descent. I was literally limping but I didn't think that needed mentioning at the moment.
Later in the evening, I sat down with my host and her friend to discuss what I should visit in Bergen, my next stop in Norway. While sipping peppermint tea (fresh peppermint leaves brewed in hot water), we discussed not only Bergen but also the polarities of life in Norway and India. They were surprised to find that Norway was on many people’s bucket lists despite the fact that Norway doesn't heavily promote tourism. We had a hearty conversation which lasted far beyond my host’s usual bedtime. It was already 10.30 pm.
As we exchanged goodbyes, I realised that I could finally see dusk. Since sunsets happen very late in the northern latitudes, I hadn’t seen nightfall since I left India. I limped out of the house and stood out watching the harbour in front of me. I had never seen such a striking urban sight.
Apart from Pulpit Rock, one of the other reasons for visiting Stavanger was to surf in the cold waters at Jæren Beach. Jaeren Beach was only 20 mins far from my Airbnb via private car but 2 hrs by public transport. Since I wasn’t travelling by car, the beach became a no-go.
Commuting in and around cities had never been an issue during my travels to other countries in Asia. Uber/Grab/Gojek are able to offer cheap commutes through private taxis/motorbikes because of the high volumes they rely on by operating in high-density areas. Take out the high-population density factor and you are left with cities like Stavanger where the volumes are too low for a viable business model. Living in overcrowded cities has its own set of advantages after all.
Bergen
Bidding adieu to Stavanger, it was time to visit the second-largest city in Norway, Bergen. The trip from Stavanger to Bergen along the beautiful west coast had us traversing both land and seas with our bus being transported on large ferries.
My visit to Bergen happened to coincide with Norway’s Constitution Day on May 17th. It was on 17th May 1814 that the Constitution of Norway was signed and declared Norway to be an independent kingdom.
Before leaving for Bergen, my Airbnb host gave her own take on Constitution Day — “On Constitution Day, we are very unlike ourselves. We are waving flags, dancing down the streets, very merry. That’s not very Norwegian. We are like this only for a day, you know. Lucky for you to be here on this day”.
I along with a bunch of volunteers from my youth hostel, where I was staying, reached the city centre at 9 am first in line to watch the parade.
All associations/clubs within the city of Bergen marched their way through the city streets. The atmosphere was extremely festive with all Norwegians dressed in their finest clothes; ladies in their traditional folk costume bunad and men in their coats and blazers.
While the city celebrated, I took the funicular to the top of Mount Floyen which majestic views of the city. Bergen is surrounded by hills on all sides and Mount Floyen is one of those “city mountains” not far from the centre. While descending, I decided to ditch the funicular and walk down the trail. The sea exposed itself as I steadily descended towards the city centre.
While descending, I watched a Norwegian couple who looked to be in their mid-40s jogging down the steep descent. These were just one of the many people whom I see running or jogging across the cities even in extreme cold. Norwegians pride themselves on being outdoorsy and physically fit. As the book “The Social Guidebook to Norway” explains, actively taking part in physically demanding contests like skiing events, triathlons, marathons etc. is commonplace and is seen as a key way to boost social status within Norwegian society.
Bergen is known as the ‘heart of the fjords’ and is the base camp for a number of fjord excursions. So the next day, I set off for a planned tour along the lines of the famous ‘Norway in a nutshell’. The tour takes one through one of the most scenic fjords of Norway- Nærøyfjord, which is on UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
At home, I often watch Harry Potter movies as a portkey to mentally transport myself away from the city to the majestic landscape surrounding Hogwarts. Ferrying down the fjords, I felt I was there in the movies. With every turn that the ferry took and the valley revealed itself, the landscape became even more beautiful. And the camera clicks that many more.
This time I didn’t feel awkward while asking someone to take my photo. I knew I’d badly regret not taking photos in this beautiful landscape, so perhaps that reduced my embarrassment. But another reason was the prevalence of a number of backpackers, and solo travellers as opposed to hand-holding newly married romance enthusiasts. And unsurprisingly so. Scandinavian countries don’t brand themselves necessarily as “romantic” destinations per se, unlike Western European countries like France, Italy or Switzerland. Most of the people I met while travelling were either students, a bunch of friends or solo backpackers. Norway is more suited for these types. Not very romantic, but rugged with a lot of natural beauty with plenty of opportunities for adventure like hiking, kayaking, and skiing. Being in Norway I felt more comfortable.
Ferrying through the fjords was definitely the peak of my trip. The landscape had everything.
Waterfalls ✅
Snow-capped mountains✅
Viking-type homes in the hills with a boat at the edge✅
Buying a summer home in those fjords can go up to millions. If there was ever a motivation needed to earn more money, it was the opportunity to live there!
As part of the trip, we got on the Flamsbana which took us to Myrdal at 840 metres above sea level. The train ride was 1 hour long and you don't really feel you are gaining elevation until you see the snow-clad mountains on both sides of the train. The National Geographic Traveler Magazine calls the Flåm Railway one of the top 10 train journeys in Europe. Deservedly so.
I reached back at Bergen in the evening and was determined to take the perfect postcard photo of the Bergen wharf (also known as Bryggen) at twilight. Twilight was still a couple of hours away. I waited for the rains to stop while having a hot Bergen fiskesuppe (Bergen fish soup) at a local restaurant and reading ‘Meditations’ by Marcus Aurelius.
The waiting game didn’t turn out too well. The rains didn’t stop as the city stayed enveloped in fog. Bergen stayed true to its nature. This was my last day in Bergen. As I sat on the bus back to my hostel, I couldn’t help but think about what an Australian backpacker staying at the same hostel had told me earlier that morning. “Bergen is absolutely beautiful. I would love to live here but dammn it’s super expensive. I don’t want to be spending 10 euros for a can of beer.” He was right. Even if you were a teetotaller, Bergen was expensive.
But no doubt — the city had more than its fair share of natural beauty and charm.
Back to Copenhagen:
Copenhagen, then my port of arrival in India, was now my port of departure for India. This time I had 2 full days in Copenhagen.
Whenever I want to understand a city better, I first start off by visiting its museum to get a good understanding of the city and the nation. The National Museum is a large palace in Copenhagen and gives a good description of the history of the country from the Stone Age times (the diggings discovered in the Jutland area) to the present times and how Denmark came to be. Copenhagen was a major trading route and there were numerous wars between the Nordic countries for who would have control over Copenhagen. Denmark was primarily an agricultural country and built its social democracy through the farmers’ movement in the 18th and 19th centuries.
After the National Museum, next on my list was the much-awaited city tour by kayak. I had never done kayaking before, yet post a 10 mins instruction drill, I was let in a sea kayak, all by myself.
As the tour started, we kayaked through the narrow canals of Copenhagen and looked at the sights from a much-vaunted vantage point. There were a couple of moments where I thought I’d topple over — I hit two tourist boats separately when I failed to turn on time. I struggled to paddle straight getting it right only for a few minutes at a time. Despite the small mishaps, it was a memorable experience.
With the kayak tour done, I had now taken six different modes of transportation for inter-city travel— tram, metro, e-scooters, e-bikes, kayak, and normal bike.
The next day, after a hearty smørrebrød for lunch, I decided to visit the second oldest amusement park in the world, the Tivoli Gardens. With strategic planning, I saved this delightful experience for my final day, ensuring that the best was yet to come. My inner child yearned to enjoy some of the exhilarating rides.
In the Star Flyer (Himmelskibet) ride, while suspended 250 feet off the ground, swaying gently in the air, I revelled in the breathtaking vistas stretching far beyond Copenhagen’s skyline with the setting sun slowly starting to paint the city in orange. In that exhilarating moment, I couldn’t help but feel a deep sense of freedom and happiness.
After a couple of joyful rides at Tivoli Gardens, I made one final stop: a jazz club. It is difficult to find jazz clubs in India playing live music. La Fontaine, a legendary establishment that has graced Copenhagen since 1864, is one of the most famous jazz clubs in the city. Despite its modest size and lack of air conditioning, a long line of eager patrons stood outside on a Sunday evening. After a patient wait of twenty minutes, I finally found myself inside. The night unfolded with a mesmerizing jazz improv performance, featuring talented musicians from all corners of the city. I could have stayed there all night but I had a flight in just under eight hours. I reluctantly bid farewell at 12:30 am to my last stop in Copenhagen.
Overall, my trip was truly remarkable. I could have easily squeezed in a couple of more cities in my itinerary but deliberately chose a few cities to be able to do justice to each place. As another of Norway’s aphorisms on sustainable tourism wisely suggests, “Travel less, experience more”.
Visiting Norway had been a long-standing dream of mine. I found the people of Norway to be extremely humble and live a life not driven by commercial interests. Shopkeepers would be happy to tell you about the cheapest and best possible option instead of finding ways to rip you off. I know I will come back to this country again. After all, I am yet to witness the Northern Lights in all their glory!
On my way back, I couldn't help but wonder what would it take for India to reach the level of development and progress of Scandinavia. What would it take to have a city harbour so pristine that citizens could jump in for a bath? What would it take for the entire country to move to cashless payments so that public toilets could collect fees unmanned? In fact “Getting to Denmark” is a concept popularized by the economist Francis Fukuyama to describe the process by which a country achieves a high level of development and governance comparable to that of Denmark (or Scandinavia in general). A key point to note is that the kind of development arch which Norway or Denmark undertook was possible due to a high level of trust inherent in the Scandinavian society thanks to a largely homogeneous population. Rising immigration has seen certain small cracks in portions of Danish society and it will be interesting to see how Scandinavia deals with these complexities.
For India, given our remarkable diversity, it is possible that the path to development may differ from that of Denmark or Norway. Nevertheless, witnessing the advanced state of these countries is enough to inspire dreams and demonstrate the potential for progress. It will be a momentous task but the prospect of steering India towards such heights is undeniably exhilarating. It is after all our generation that carries the responsibility of leading India and embarking on the journey towards “getting to Denmark.”
P.S. I didn't get a chance to elaborate on the technological advances and the experience of using a number of different products (both software and hardware) in Scandinavia. I hope to cover that in a subsequent article.
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